There are three very obvious things evident in Bangladesh:
1.) Bangladesh is a country of rural-based villages.
2.) Millions of people are in desperate need of opportunity.
3.) Bengalis are natural artisans.
Logic would therefore go as follows:
Develop creative opportunities for the rural population of Bangladesh.
BRAC— Bangladesh Rural Advancement Committee, now the world's largest NGO understands this. In 1972, Sir Fazle Hazan Abed (recently knighted for his contribution to humanity), birthed BRAC in to existence to help rehabilitate the thousands of war refugees who were returning to their ravaged but liberated country. Their mission is described as one that "tackles poverty from a holistic viewpoint, transitioning individuals from being aid recipients to becoming empowered citizens in control of their own destinies. Over the years, BRAC has organized the isolated poor and learned to understand their needs by piloting, refining and scaling up practical ways to increase their access to resources, support their entrepreneurship and empower them to become active agents of change. Women and girls have been the central analytical lens of BRAC’s anti-poverty approach; BRAC recognizes both their vulnerabilities and thirst for change. BRAC always strives to find practical and scalable approaches to eradicate poverty wherever it is."
Recognizing Bangladesh's strong heritage in handicrafts and textiles, they develop village-based business hubs for training and industry. Basically providing a way to utilize, empower and fund the talented human-power of the country by keeping it indigenously focused. The opposite of what the modern-day garment industry has done— exploit cheap labor to produce garments exported for western consumption. Another issue entirely. So what you have is villages tucked away all over the country with little hubs of artisans turning out products then sold nationally (and in London) at a chain of emporiums called Aarong's. The remarkable thing is that when you walk in to an Aarong's you are immediately aware that this is not just a handicrafts store, no this is a carefully curated collection of items utilizing Bengali traditions but modernizing the effect with a distinctly designerly feel. The colors are intense, the details are intricate, and somehow the items are magically relevant at once to both nationals and western girls like me. It's quite mystifying actually. When you travel outside of the cities here in Bangladesh you cannot help but wonder— where is everyone? Because it is poor and rural, the roads are barely maintained or even developed. The villages are true villages, many cook over outside fire, fetch water from a well, and electricity rolls in and out on an undetermined basis. So how does BRAC do it? How do they find all these villages, figure out what they are gifted in, train them, keep them producing high quality goods, transport the goods and then sell them? If you could see Bangladesh, the whole business would have you scratching your head as well.
I was able to see one of these creative hubs first hand...
About three hours south of Chittagong lies the riverside village of Malunghat.
There's not much there.
There's not much there.
The only reason we got off the bus is because there is a missionary hospital there that also rents guesthouses— only known because my traveling companion Christa lived in Bangladesh for a good chunk of years, so she knows of these welcoming places. The hospital in and of itself is a true feat. Especially in comparison to the misery of the public hospital in Dhaka that I mentioned in a previous post. Set down a small path off of the main road, the compound houses a full-service hospital, a fistula clinic, a school, several homes and several guesthouses (with AC!). Memorial Christian Hospital is situated in the midst of the village and is for anyone in need of care. No one will be turned away and all will be treated with compassion. People come from far and wide as it is one of the best hospitals along the south east bay of Bengal. We witnessed and experienced their care as several of us were in need of some medical TLC ourselves. The doctors and staff are salt of the earth people, coming from all over to serve the people of Bangladesh. Many villagers find employment at the hospital as well. It does not look like a hospital in the traditional sense. Instead it is a sprawling set of house-like buildings that have a distinct "in the jungle" feel, connected by mossy paths and rice patty views. Down one path lies The Heart House.
Heart House is a BRAC creation developed in partnership with the hospital to provide income for widows young and old— a very marginalized slice of the population. Inside this little house are 40 women of varying ages making Bengali dolls. They are very detailed and each woman seems to be an expert on her part of the doll. It's like Santa's workshop. One makes the arms, one sews them on, one paints the faces, one sews the clothes. And on and on until there stands the doll all ready to go off to be sold at Aarong's. And that's how it happens.
Many NGOs have taken their cue from BRAC's Aarong's. They have set up village job creation programs lead by a creative vision in conjunction with the innate talent that Bengalis seem to be born with. Some NGOs create programs and products largely for export because a higher price can be demanded outside of the country. True. But, it is refreshing to see the products also staying in the country to be purchased by the nationals, boosting their own economy and proudly keeping their creative legacy alive. The result is that Aarong's has developed sort of a cult-following. It is THE place to shop. If you carry the orange Aarong'sAarong's in my town.
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